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Breakdown of a visit to the Animal Hospital

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Veterinarian performs an exam on a cat at the animal hospital
Veterinarian performs an exam on a cat at the animal hospital

Entering the Animal Hospital

Ever wonder what all the people racing around your animal hospital are doing? What is the veterinarian looking for in my cat’s mouth? I can remember going to the animal hospital visit when I was small and trying to make sense of everything that was going on in this tiny office full of barking dogs and crying cats. Luckily, we have no barking dogs at the Cat Clinic of Plymouth so things are less hectic feeling.

Well, the first person that you meet might seem to have the most obvious job. The veterinary receptionist will great you and let the rest of the staff know you arrived. They confirm you and your cats information and find out any other information that the rest of the staff might need to know before the appointment begins including new medical history, medical concerns or how your cat seems today. That receptionist takes care of this while also answering sometimes complex veterinary questions via telephone, email and social media. They stay very busy!

Preparing for the Veterinary Exam

Once the receptionist informs the veterinary technician or their assistant, the veterinary technician will again familiarize themselves with your pet and prepare the room to make sure that it is clean and comfy. One in the exam room, the veterinary technician will take a history of basic husbandry questions plus changes in medical history since the last appointment as well as any new medical or behavioral concerns for the veterinarian. We will usually open the carrier and allow your cat to comfortably patrol the exam room of the animal hospital and get comfortable with the new space. Sometimes with a more nervous patient that gets defensive if over stimulated, we will allow them to relax in their own space within their carrier. (See How to get your cat to LOVE its carrier). Eventually, we will ask the patient to step out of their cat carrier. We avoid pulling or dumping them from their carrier if at all possible. If there is a top door or if the top half of the cat carrier can be removed we will use that option sometimes performing the entire exam in the safety of the bottom of the carrier if at all possible. If appropriate the veterinary technician will collect a basic health assessment including heart rate, respiratory rate, temperature and blood pressure.

At that point, the veterinary technician confers with the veterinarian allowing the veterinarian to reexamine the cat’s chart in light of any new information that the veterinary technician has discovered during the conversation with you or assessing your cat including prior examinations or treatment plans, prior blood results or radiographs or the new medical history that was provided.

The Preventative Care Exam

The veterinarian then enters the room and hopefully after some pleasantries with you and your feline fur baby, the exam begins. Every veterinarian has their own systematic approach to the exam so that no body system goes unexamined. My exam begins when the patient is exploring the exam room. I watch how they are getting around. Do they get around comfortably? Are there any signs of pain or lameness? I also take note of their attitude and body language. Sometimes I will spend some time on the floor with them before moving them to the exam table.

After some chin scratches and some treats for the patient if appropriate, I usually start with the cat’s head. At this point, I am looking for obvious abnormalities like dirty ears, cloudy eyes, oral disease and enlarged lymph nodes that may require further investigation. Continuing down the body, I stop to check the neck and chest again for enlargements especially of lymph nodes or thyroid glands all the while trying to get more specific information about the issues that were brought to the veterinary technician’s attention.  With my stethoscope safely plugged into my ears, I then listen for heart sounds. This is usually when my client wants to start a story. So between the cats growling, purring, breathing and the client talking, I listen to the heart for specific heart sounds, beat abnormalities and heart rate. I then turn my attention to the breath sounds of the cat, they should be relatively quiet and at a normal rate.

Once the stethoscope is off I palpate the abdomen of the cat looking for a normal sized liver, spleen and bladder. Once these are identified, I concentrate on the intestines feeling for masses, thickenings, amount and consistency of stool in the colon.  Finally, I run my hands over the entire body of the cat looking for lumps and bumps and health of the skin and coat.  At this point, I will investigate more intensely any areas of concern found on initial veterinary exam. This may include looking at the ear canal with an otoscope or looking at the eyes with a ophthalmoscope.

Preventative Care Plan

Hopefully there are no abnormalities and we can administer preventative vaccinations or draw blood for preventative lab work. If there is an abnormality after discussing with the client, the veterinarian and veterinary technician come up with a diagnostic or treatment plan that the technician can then explain to the owner. If everyone is in agreement, we proceed with the plan. The technicians and veterinarians work together to set up what is needed so that when the patient is ready, we efficiently work through the punch list attempting to decrease stress to the client and the cat.

Veterinary Medical Record Documentation

Once the appointment is concluded, the veterinary technician and veterinarian make sure that all of the exam findings and discussions are noted within the medical record as well as all of the treatments or diagnostics that have been suggested. The clients are walked back to the receptionist to make their next appointment and receive any necessary documents.

So while what I have described here is the protocol of the Cat Clinic of Plymouth and other animal hospitals may have slightly different takes, the basic idea is fairly universal. As always I encourage my clients to ask questions and raise concerns at any point of this process. We are here to be a health advocate for your special fur baby. As their health care proxy, you must be just as comfortable with your experience at the veterinary hospital.

To schedule an appointment for your cat, Contact Us

 

By Cassandra Kelley DVM, veterinarian and owner Cat Clinic of Plymouth

Hairballs

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Cat Veterinarian, Dr Kelley, Cat Clinic Plymouth, MA
Preventative Care Exam for cats

Hairballs, Hacks, Gags and Gas: Learn why you should schedule your cat’s annual preventative exam today!

When you’re a cat owner, you know all the benefits of living with a furry friend in your home.  Kisses, head butts and loud purrs. Did you expect hairballs on the carpet? Partially digested garbage strewn all over the floor?

Did you expect you cat to belong to the “Speed Eaters Anonymous Club,” where they eat so fast it comes right back up?

Like many cat owners, you may assume these digestive ailments just happen. You may assume they’re normal and chalk them up to coming with the territory of living with a pet. Perhaps they’ve become regular occurrences that you simply handle with mild frustration. Overall, no worries, you say!

The important thing to know is that many seemingly “normal” digestive problems are best to be checked out by a veterinarian. We know there’s a lot of information on the Internet you can read, but nothing replaces a face (yours) to face (ours) to face (your cat) visit with your veterinarian.

When you schedule your pet’s yearly preventative care exam, your veterinarian can discuss and answer all of your questions. During the veterinary exam, your veterinarian will perform a “hands-on” inspection of your cat’s abdomen by feeling each of the organs and evaluation the shape, size and position. They will listen through a stethoscope for any abnormal gut sounds. They may want to take a look at your pet’s poop to check for parasites and harmful bacteria. It’s all about digestion and it’s how to keep your cat healthy!

Schedule your cat’s annual preventative care exam today! Determine what’s normal and what’s not when it comes to your cat’s digestive tract.

Just think, after your visit, you may never have to clean up a hairball ever again.

Why does my cat or kitten bite me? Play Behavior and Training

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Training Your Cat to Play
Training Your Cat to Play

Natural Cat Behavior

Have you been there? You are walking down the hallway with shorts on and your cat suddenly without warning or provocation jumps out from a doorway launching themselves at your bare legs with claws and sometimes even teeth! As a veterinarian, I often get these stories at the veterinary hospital and recommend training.

Think about a cat’s idea of fun. It usually involves stalking, chasing, attacking and killing things. From a very young age kittens begin to learn this hunting behavior by practicing on their litter mates. The game begins when one kitten jumps and bites their sibling. Let the games begin! When the game becomes too rough the sibling responds with body position, vocalization or hissing, or finally a well-placed claw until they are taught what is acceptable among the litter. However this cat behavior is also training to protect territory from predators including other cats.

Cat Instincts

Furthermore, other games include hunting training. Momma cat usually brings home some fresh carcasses with which the kittens can play. Gradually as the litter gains more expertise, mom will start to bring mortally wounded prey as a play item. Then gradually less wounded prey will be introduced until the kittens hunting prowess progresses to being able to capture and kill fully living prey. My point is that cats are true carnivores and there idea of play does not included coloring.

Training Your Cat

So once these hunting, clawing but cute as can be felines start living with us, how can we make play more tolerable to the human household? The absolute first rule of thumb is to never reward biting, clawing, and scratching of humans no matter how big or small that human may be. Even if there is one person in the house is willing to put up with this play, the rest of the household will continue to be targets. This is the training phase of both the humans and the cat of what is not acceptable. Animal hospitals around the country get many requests to euthanize “aggressive” cats because they scare the grandchildren, the neighbors or even the husband just because they are play aggressive and have never been trained.

What does this mean? NO playing with hands, feet, toes or hair as toys. Not under a blanket or under a box, with socks on, hand tucked into a sleeve…..never. There are plenty of toys out there for cats, some we can even make at home. We will talk about that later. And if or when, a cat attempts to use these items as toys, they must be distracted with an appropriate toy. A food reward can be used if the cat plays with the appropriate toy.  Remember unless there is an underlying cat behavior issue, this is for fun! You know what else is fun? When the human playmate screams, squeals, runs, sprays the cat with a squirt bottle, wags a finger sternly yelling “NO!” and all of these things will reward this initiation of play. If the cat cannot be distracted, I recommend that they be gently, calmly and safely be placed into a quiet place for a minute or two, because that is no fun. Then continue to choose appropriate toys to continue the play and training.

Cat Play

Here’s the fun part! Playing with your cat should be fun! Of course, cats are inclined to play with a stuffed mouse, ball, pillow, empty bag or box etc. however cats adore social interaction from you! Finding interactive toys that they enjoy bring you into the action in a safe way. Laser pointers, mice on the end of a cat safe string, feathers on the end of a stick are great choices that allow you to play at an arm’s length from hunting teeth and claws. Just remember to put all strings out of reach of cats when they are not supervised.  Another option is tossing treats or dental diets down the hall or through the kitchen can provide entertainment as well. Different cat personalities will have different preferences. Some cats are bug hunters so a laser pointer is purrfect. Others prefer to hunt mice or birds so mice on a string or feathers on a stick are more appropriate. And make those things move up onto perches, across the bed and around the dining room table. Don’t forget about vertical spaces! Remember that the idea is that sometimes they catch their prey and that is part of the reward. It may take some time to get to know what your cat likes but once you find out… just give it to them!

The key to success in training any cat behavior is commitment, patience, and consistency. And as always your favorite cat veterinarian should always be a source of information if issues arise or especially if you think that there is a cat behavior issue.

For more information check out Cat Clinic Blog

How do I train my cat not to scratch my furniture?

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Cat scratching his scratching post
Cat scratching his scratching post

Cats normally scratch to remove the outer dying sheath of their nails, marking territory and stretching and strengthening their body for hunting and climbing. It is a normal part of being a feline! However if they are scratching you or your things, it can be frustrating to say the least.

Up to 42% of reported behavior problems have to do with undesirable scratching and may be one of the main reasons other than aggression that a cat is relinquished. With cat parent education and cat training, we can avoid undesirable behavior, protect you and your couch all the while allowing your cat to perform their normal behaviors and avoiding declawing (SEE Should I declaw my cat?)

The key to training a cat is to let them think that they came up with the idea all on their own and positively reward only this good behavior. First things first! Find out what and where they like to scratch and give it to them by buying or building something appropriate for them to scratch.

All too often at the Cat Clinic of Plymouth, our veterinarians are approached with this problem behavior. After some questioning, veterinarians learn that either there are no things for the cat to scratch, the appropriate scratching post is in the corner in a room the cat never goes in, the appropriate scratcher is the same one that was purchased for the 3 pound kitten who is now 16 pounds or the worst…. The appropriate scratcher was the old chair that no one cared was a scratching post that was replaced by new furniture that everyone cares is getting scratched. All scenarios that is very confusing for a feline.

Choosing the perfect scratcher

The perfect scratcher is the one your cat wants to scratch! Pay attention to what your cat is scratching. What is the material it is scratching, rug, cloth, wood? Is it vertical or horizontal scratching? How big is the item it is scratching? Most cats have a preference and that preference will determine what we build or buy. There should be more than one option in more than one area to keep your cat happy.

Placement

The best place to put your cat’s new scratcher is the place that they are scratching! Move the couch or chair over 6 inches and put the scratcher right there or at least in the same general vicinity. We can eventually start to move it to a more desirable location for you once we get the training out of the way.

Training to the new scratching posts

Once the new scratchers are in place, we need to reward positive behavior by getting the cat to scratch it. Enticing the cat with treats, cat nip and toys on the new scratcher should get them interested in exploring the new scratcher. If that is enough and you did a great job researching what and where your cat wants to scratch, then reward the scratching behavior. “Good kitty!”s are great to start but we really need to reward with something great. Food, play and other enjoyable forms of attention will go a long way.

Avoiding inappropriate scratching

Remember what I said about cat training? It goes a lot easier if they think they came up with the idea. So making your couch, your woodwork or your rug unattractive for scratching will help. We want your cat to think, “Why did I ever like scratching this?” Covering with plastic, double sided sticky tape for this purpose or tin foil will change the way the object feels. Putting tin foil or even better clear plastic rug liner where the cat stands to scratch is another way to make scratching less comfortable. Remember the clear plastic runners that used to protect those beautiful green shag rugs in offices of the seventies? They have the little nubbins underneath to hold them to the carpet. Well they still sell those things off the roll by square foot in many home improvement stores. Cut them to where your kitty stands to scratch the woodwork or chair nubbin side up….very uncomfortable on paw pads.

Resisting negative training

Scratching is fun! You know what else is fun? People hollering in high pitched voices, games of chase and water bottles. I know you think that these actions are applying the stick in the carrot and stick rule but, trust me, for most cats it does not. Most cats find this attention exciting and rewarding not the opposite!

While you’re training

Behavior change is hard for all of us whether we bite our nails or twirl our hair. It can take some time to make these changes stick. In the meantime, we can do some things to ease the transition. These include

  • Keeping the nails trimmed
  • Nail Caps that glue onto the nail to prevent damage when scratching
  • Facial pheromone diffusers or sprays
  • Environmental Enrichment (see Enriching Your Environment for Cat Happiness)

With time and consistency, you will have your furniture and wood work back in no time! Good Luck!

 

Why Does My Indoor Cat Need a Rabies Vaccine?

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Indoor Cat Vaccinated for Rabies
Indoor Cat Vaccinated for Rabies

What is rabies?

The state of Massachusetts requires that all cats are vaccinated against the rabies virus by a licensed veterinarian. Rabies is a virus of the central nervous system and is almost always fatal. It is spread through the saliva of the infected animal. All animals are susceptible to catching rabies usually through bite wounds although it is usually carnivorous animals test positive for rabies. Smaller rodents usually do not test positive most likely because they don’t live through the initial skirmish with the rabid animal. Bats are also known to carry rabies and are the highest cause of human rabies in the U.S.

Indoor Cats and Rabies

So if a cat never leaves the house, why does the state of Massachusetts require the vaccine? There are several reasons but here is the most frightening.  Imaging waking up and finding a dead bat with YOUR unvaccinated cat hovering over it. Did my cat kill that bat? Did the bat die from rabies? Did the bat bite my cat? Did the bat bite me?!?!? These are frantic calls that the Cat Clinic of Plymouth and I am sure many other animal hospitals all too frequently.

Usually, home owners are completely unaware that bats are getting into their home until one dies. This becomes a terrible dilemma as the recommendations from not only the state of Massachusetts but also the Center for Disease Control  are to euthanize any unvaccinated animal that has come in contact with either an animal testing positive for rabies or any known carrier unavailable for testing.  They’re asking you to euthanize your beloved feline fur baby. Why would anyone take that chance?

After Exposure

And if you decline to euthanize your cat and your cat becomes exposed, you are required to quarantine them from the rest of the household for 45 days! This is to protect you and the rest of your family from being exposed to rabies, a disease that kills 99.9% of its victims!

So I guess I understand why the state requires veterinarians to vaccinate ALL cats regardless of how they are housed. For a relatively inexpensive, safe and easy assurance against a deadly disease – and doesn’t sound like a fun death, I make sure all my pets are vaccinated against rabies.

Pleasant veterinary visits

Check out the blog on stress free veterinary visits.

NEXT – how safe are rabies vaccines?

Litter Box Care

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Litter Box Care to prevent or treat elimination problems

From the American Association of Feline Practitioners

Most cats prefer a fine-grained, unscented litter substrate (e.g., clumping litter). Boxes should be scooped 1 or 2 times daily. Clumping litter should be completely changed at least weekly and more often if more than one cat uses it. Clay litter should be changed a minimum of every other day (more frequently if multiple cats are using it).Wash litter box with warm, soapy water and dry well before adding new litter.

The ideal number of litter boxes is one per cat, plus one. Litter boxes should be placed in at least 2 different locations, and preferably more if a multiple cat household. Locations should be private and have easy access. Boxes should not be placed next to noisy appliances. Prevent blocking litter box exit or entry of one cat by another. Have at least two ways for cats to enter and exit the box. Never trap or corner a cat in its litter box to give it medication or perform other procedures that the cat may dislike.

Many cats prefer a litter depth of approximately 1.5 inches; however, preferences vary. Cats prefer litter boxes that are at least 1.5 times the length of their bodies. Many commercial litter boxes are too small for larger cats. Sweater storage boxes, cement mixing tubs, and small dog litter pans (for dogs up to 35 pounds) all make excellent cat litter boxes.

HELPFUL FACTS REGARDING URINATION AND DEFECATION: The average cat urinates twice daily (+/- 2), and defecates once (and up to 3-4 times in outdoor cats) daily. Some cats sniff and cover their eliminations; others don’t. Both are considered normal behavior. Eliminating outside the box often signals an underlying medical condition. The earlier the problem is corrected, the better the chance for the cat to return to the litter box.Call your veterinarian to schedule an appointment.